|How I Made It|
|Page 1 of 3|
|Shaker-Style Pedestal Table
Due to copywrite protection laws I can not include the actual plan for this End Table. However, you can find plans for it in Workbench Magazine Issue No. 274. You will need the plan to complete any comments I make here, especially if you want to modify the plans similar to what I have done. You will also find a way to turn the pedestal on a router table in an accompanying article.
|The Table Top
The first step is to build the table top, I selected Red Oak to create this table. I made the top by edge-gluing 3 boards together utilizing a simple butt joint style reinforced with biscuits. I used a biscuit joiner and #20 biscuits, to ensure the strength of the joint, clamping them up to allow the glue to set-up. I selected the boards for their color and grain pattern, arranging them so the growth rings alternated from one board to the next. I used my small hand planer to smooth the edges for joining (a portable 6 in. jointer or larger jointer would do this job easier and definitely better, but I don't have one at this time)
The finished size of the top will be 22" x 22", but it is best to start with oversized boards to create the top and cut to the final dimensions later. I used a combination of my belt sander with an 80 grit belt and going from 100 to 300 grit sand paper on my random orbital sander, to sand the top flat, the next step is to trim it to size. Now there are several ways to trim the table top to its final dimensions, but one of the easiest I have found works like this: Two sides are already parallel, but not at the 22" final dimension needed. I measured the width of the top between these two edges and split the difference when trimming them on the table saw so the end boards would be the same width. Now for the uneven board ends. Since we don't have a true straight edge to put against the fence, I used double-sided tape and my carpenter's square, taping it to one end and running the square against the fence to trim one edge. Now place the newly sawn edge against the fence and trim the other end to the final 22" width.
All's that's left to complete the table top is to, using a router, rout a decorative profile around all four edges. I used an Ogee Bit to create not only a rounded edge, but a small step-down for that shadow effect.
|The Drawer Runners/Guides
The next step is to add three strips of wood that attach to the underneath side of the table top to suspend the drawers from and to guide the drawers in and out.
The guides are 3/4" strips of oak cut to length, 20 1/2", so that the table top overhangs the guides by 3/4" on both sides.
The center strip can be safely cut to length and width, 3" x 20-1/2" However, the sides guides are only 1-1/2" wide and it is best to start with an extra wide board. The reason for this is that each side guide must have a rabbet cut into the full length of the guide and the center guide must have a rabbet cut into both sides of it.
I do this by setting up my stacked dado set into my table saw. Using spring clamp I attach a scrap piece of wood to my table saw fence for use as a sacrificial fence, I set the dado up for a 3/8" wide x 7/16" deep rabbet. I cut a rabbet into the two long sides of the center guide and the extra wide board that will become the two side guides. These rabbets will form the track for the drawers to ride on as they suspend under the table.
Once the rabbets are cut I then rip the extra wide board into two pieces, each 1-1/2" wide and 20-1/2" long. Next, again using my router and a roundover router bit, I ease the outside edges of the side guides.
Before the guides can be attached to the underneath side of the table top, a collar block must be made to help "beef-up" the area of the center guide where the pedestal will be connected to the table top. The collar block is simply a 3/4" block 3 inches square. Again I rounded over all four sides of the bottom of the collar block for appearance purposes. Next, just center it on the center guide and glue it in place.
Next, so the pedestal can be attached to the table top, I set-up my drill press with a 1-1/4" Forstner Bit that is necessary to drill the mortise into the collar block and center guide. This is so the 1-1/4" round by 1-1/2" long tenon on the pedestal can slip into the mortise.
Now it's time to attach the guides to the table top. The guides MUST be parallel to each other, otherwise the drawers will bind. They also must be set-back 3/4" so the top overhangs the drawers. The guides are simply screwed to the table top, but since the top is solid wood, it will expand and contract with changes in humidity. To compensate for the variances in humidity, I used my cordless drill to I pre-drilled 1/4" shank holes in the guides for all screws except those closest to the front edge of the top. For the holes at the front edge I drilled 3/16" shank holes. This secures the front portion of the guides to the top, but allows the rest to "float".
|Making the Drawers
I made the drawers out of 1/2" Russian Birch plywood, with 3/4" solid oak drawer fronts/backs, 3/8" solid oak slides, and 1/4" luan for the bottoms. I cut the drawer fronts/backs 3/4" x 4" x 6", the drawer sides are 1/2" x 4" x 20", the slides are 3/8" x 3/8" x 20-1/2", and the bottoms are 1/4" x 5-1/2" x 19-1/2". I used a locking rabbet joint to join the drawer fronts/backs to the drawer sides.
The Drawer Fronts/Backs:
To form a locking rabbet joint, the tongues are the first thing you need to make. I set-up my stack dado blade into my table saw set to cut a 1/4" wide by 1/2" deep groove in the center of the edges of each drawer front/ back on the 4 in. sides. To make sure the groove is centered I adjusted my table saw fence so that the dado blade is roughly centered and then, with the work piece standing on end, make one pass and then turn the piece around and run it through again, thus assuring that the groove is centered. I then repeat this for each side edge of each drawer front/back. Next, on the backside of each drawer front/back, I trim the tongue to length to give me a 1/4" long tongue on the backside and full length on the front of each drawer front/back. Next I lower the dado blade 1/4" and cut groove 1/4" up from the bottom in each drawer front/back for the bottom to fit into.
With the same dado blade and fence set-up. I need a dado to lock into the tongues on the drawer fronts/backs and a dado for the drawer bottom to set into. After all the dadoes have been cut, I drill holes in the center of the drawer fronts/backs for the placement of the knobs. It is easier to do this now than after the drawer is glued up. Now glue-up the drawer, glue the sides to one drawer front/back and then slide the bottom into the groove (no glue here) then glue the other drawer front/back in place and clamp it up to dry. Make sure that the drawers are square, measure across each corner, making sure the measurements are the same; use a cross-over clamp if needed to ensure drawers are square.
The Drawer Slides:
The drawer slides are next. These are long narrow strips of oak that are glued to the top edges of each drawer side. This forms the lip on each drawer that fits into the drawer glides that are attached to the table top. Now, attach the drawer pulls and you're all set.