Welcome to
How I Made It
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Due to copywrite protection laws I can not include the actual plan
for the Grandfather Curio Clock. However, you can purchase
the basic plan from
Wood Projects.com - Item #SO-09804. You will need the plan to complete any comments I make here, especially if you want to modify the plans similar to what I have done.

The small picture on the left is what the clock looks
like using strictly the plan as purchased.

The picture on the right is how I modified the basic plan
to add my own personal touches.
The basic clock design looks a lot like a Box Kite, with boxes on top and bottom connected by 4 vertical supports. The first step is to build the boxes: I cut out the box front, back and side panels from 3/4 in. MDF Oak and glued them together in a simple butt joint style reinforced with biscuits, using a biscuit joiner and #20 biscuits, to ensure the strength of the joint. The sides of each box overlap the front and back panels.
I then assembled each box by gluing the sides together and clamping them up to allow the glue to set-up. Note the clamp across the top of the box on the left, this clamp is holding the assembly square while the glue dries. It is very important that each box is square. If you don't have long enough clamps, Rockler has a great jig to help keep any assembly square, so that when you attach the vertical supports the clock will be square as well, and won't look like its leaning.
I then made the bottoms of each box and the top of the bottom box out of the same 3/4 in. MDF Oak. The top of the top box will be made later in the process. I rabbetted all four sides, leaving about a 1/4 in. lip, on each top and bottom panel to allow the to be inserted into each box. This adds strength to the box as the bottom panels are glued to the box sides. The top of the top box is left loose as it allows access to the clock and/or light fixture as we'll see later. The top of the bottom box may be left loose and you'll have a secret compartment or glued if no secret compartment is desired.
The clock face I picked out for my clocks are from Meisel Specialties-click here to order and type in 5711 in the Search Box The clock face is 6-1/4 in. in diameter, the insert portion of the clock is 3-1/8 in. in diameter and 9/16 in. deep. Using my drill press and a forstner bit I drilled the hole necssary to for inserting the clock into the top box.
The next step is to make 4 vertical supports that tie the 2 boxes together. I made each support from two pieces of 3/4 in. Oak, one 3/4 in. wide and the other 1-1/2 in. wide. The 2 pieces are then glued together to form an "L"-Shape, creating a 1-1/2 in. width on both faces on the "L". There are a couple of things to do before gluing the two pieces together. On 2 of the 1-1/2 in. pieces I put 3 decorative grooves, centered and spaced 1/4 in. apart, with the middle groove being about 1-1/2 in. longer on the top and bottom from the other 2 grooves, and holes need to be drilled in each support to hold the pins that make the shelves adjustable (see pictures below).
Detail Grooves and Shelf Holes

The picture on the right shows the grooves and the holes. To make the the grooves I marked my
table saw rip fence with start/stop reference lines (where the front and back of the blade breaks the plane of the saw table top) and then marked the back side of each support with corresponding reference marks. I set the blade to make each groove 1/16 in. deep. Use your own judgement on where you reference the lines on the supports (see plans for help here)

I also drilled 28 holes in each support for the 1/4 shelf pins that make the glass shelves adjustable. Here again you'll need to use you judgement on where you want to start and stop the holes for shelf adjustments.
The picture on the left shows the Jig It Shelving Jig I bought from Rockler to help drill the shelf pin holes evenly and accurately. The Jig It System comes complete with Self Centering Drill Bit. You can accomplish the virtually the same thing using a piece of 1/4 in. peg board attached to a piece of stock use as a fence. The self centering bit is great for this as it not only centers the hole, but it also controls the depth of each hole. At any rate I would not suggest that you try to drill these holes free hand.
Next, to glue-up the supports I again turned to my biscuit joiner and #20 biscuits. First,  I off-set the opposite sides of each support 1/2 in. so that once they are glued together creating the "L", there are 56 possible shelf positions (every 1/2 in.) Next, I mark where I'm going to place each biscuit and use my biscuit joiner to cut the slots for the biscuits. Now it's time to glue and clamp the supports into the "L"-Shape. I've found that if you place 2 of the supports back-to-back, you can clamp 2 at once. Trust me, you're going to need all the clamps you can for this step. After the glue has dried, then trim each support to be even.
The picture on the left shows the cordless drills I used for the next step, which is attaching the supports to the boxes. The plans call for you to use nails and glue to attach the supports to the boxes, however, I prefer to attach the boxes using screws. One of the drills has a Jacobs Right Angle Attachment (you can get one from Harbor Freight by Clicking Here and enter Item #43623 in the Search by Item Number Box), with a counter sink bit, and the other has a screw driver head in it.
Here you see why I use the right-angle drill attachment. I drill 3 holes just above each joint in every corner inside each box and screw the boxes to the supports from the inside so that no fasteners show. Without the attachment there is no way I can get my drills into this space.
The picture on the left shows the top box after the supports have been attached. It also shows the filler moldings between the 2 supports at the top and bottom of the box.

More on this later on Page 2